Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat – Free Pattern

This free crochet cat hat pattern uses tapestry crochet to create a cute cat design and is made with Color Theory yarn from Lion Brand.


Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat Pinterest Image

Crochet Cat Hat Pattern

My mom’s birthday was coming up and I was brainstorming on what I could make her this year. She works as a crossing guard and those dark winter mornings can be very cold and hard to get through while she’s standing out there.

A crochet hat seems like a typical gift, but I knew that she is always needing things to keep her warm out there. And I also knew that she’d love having something fun and cute to wear while she is crossing the school kids.

Lastly, she is a typical cat lady, so I really didn’t have to brainstorm very hard or long before coming up with this cute crochet cat hat design. When I went to visit her for her birthday and gift her my newest creation, she was so thrilled with her new cat hat! She has since told me that she receives endless compliments on it anytime she wears it out.

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Crochet Cat Hat Pattern

Honestly, I am absolutely in love with this cute cat design myself. In fact, I have since made my own cat hat for myself – I mean, I couldn’t let my mom have all the fun. I wanted to have one too!

Do you love tapestry crochet hats? You’ll love these hats also:

Crochet Cactus Beanie Pattern
Crochet Winter Hat Pattern
Crochet WINE Beanie Pattern

Free Crochet Pattern for the Cat Hat

MATERIALS:

  • two contrasting colors of Color Theory yarn, 1 skein each. I chose Peacock and Moonbeam. (or you can use your favorite worsted-weight yarn)
  • H8 (5 mm) crochet hook or whatever size needed to obtain gauge
  • scissors
  • tapestry needle
  • faux fur pom pom

SKILL LEVEL:

  • Intermediate. The maker should have basic knowledge of how to change colors. This pattern also uses slip stitch crochet and the waistcoat stitch – both of which require the maker to be able to tension their yarn accordingly.

Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat

PATTERN NOTES:

  • This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
  • The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
  • Loose tension is very important for this particular design! You may need to go up a hook size or two if you have very tight tension.
  • The brim and the hat are worked separately. The brim is worked in short rows and the hat is worked in the round, from the bottom up. The two pieces are assembled at the end.
  • The entire hat (minus the brim) is worked using the waistcoat stitch. To avoid sounding redundant and to keep the pattern easier to read, I’ve only included written instructions for the colors used in each round.
  • There are 3 sets of instructions given for the colorwork section. Written instructions, a color graph and color block instructions are all given depending on your preferred pattern-reading method.

STITCHES USED AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):

  • ch = chain
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • blo = back loop only
  • sc = single crochet
  • wst = waistcoat stitch
  • wst dec = waistcoat stitch decrease
  • A = color A, I used Peacock
  • B = color B, I used Moonbeam

The Waistcoat Stitch:

The Waistcoat Stitch is a knit-look stitch that requires loose tension. However, it’s quite simple – it’s just a single crochet! The only difference is where you insert your hook to make the stitch. The most important tip I can give you is to make sure you make this stitch with very loose tension! Otherwise, this will be a very frustrating experience for you. I suggest making a few rounds first just to get the hang of it.

WAISTCOAST STITCH PHOTO TUTORIALS:

Normally, we insert our hook under the loops on top.

WAISTCOAST STITCH PHOTO TUTORIALS:

Instead, you will insert your hook in between the V or ‘legs’ of the stitch. Here, I’ve inserted my needle behind the V so you can see better what I’m talking about.

WAISTCOAT STITCH TUTORIAL -5

Here, I’ve inserted my needle in the center of the V to show you exactly where you will be inserting your hook to make the stitch.

GAUGE:

  • Make 3 rounds of the hat first and then measure. You should have: 5 wst rounds x 3.5 sts = 1 square inch.

FINISHED SIZE:

(laying flat and assembled but without Pom Pom):

  • Length from brim: approx. 9″ 
  • Width at brim: approx. 8.5″
  • Width at center (the cat rows): 9.25″

Brim width measurements:

  • 4″, unfolded
  • 2″, folded

How to adjust the size:

This hat is designed for an average adult woman. I have not made this hat for a child, only the adult size. To make this hat smaller, you could use a lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook.

Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat

Instructions for the brim – Crochet Cat Hat Pattern:

Feel free to go up a hook size or two for the brim if you find working into sl sts is too tight. This will have no effect on the hat itself. In the end, you’ll be whipstitching the brim to the hat, so you do not need a certain number of rows to make it ‘fit’ the hat.

using color A, ch 21

*A note on the brim width/length: You can make the brim the length of your choice. Simply add or subtract chains as desired.. Once you’ve made 5-6 rows, fold the brim in half (this is a folded brim) and assess if it’s a good length for you.

Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (20 sl sts)

Row 2: working in the back loops only in every row from now on, make 1 sl st blo in each st all the way across. Ch 1, turn. (20 sl sts)

Repeat row 2 until the brim stretches comfortably around your head. For reference, mine is 80 rows. Yours might be more or less depending on your tension/yarn/hook size. IMPORTANT: Fold the brim in half lengthwise (as if you were folding up the brim on a beanie) and then stretch it around your head. Don’t stretch it around your head unfolded, otherwise you will end up with a brim that is too tight. A folded brim vs. an unfolded brim are two different lengths so it’s super important to size it to your head when it’s folded.

Sewing the brim of the crochet hat

When your brim has reached the length that is comfortable for you, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the ends together.

Fold your brim so the ends are together and whip stitch across.

SEWING THE BRIM OF THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE

Once you’ve stitched all the way across, fasten off and flip it around so that the seam is on the inside. Fasten off.

Written instructions for the Crochet Cat Hat

For the colorwork rounds (8 – 17) there are 3 sets of instructions depending on your preference. There are written instructions below. However, if you prefer a color graph OR color blocks – scroll down if you wish to use either one of those.

*Round 1 is the only one that uses sc. All others will be worked using the waistcoat stitch. You will end each round by joining with a sl st to the first st and ch 1 to start the next round. Carry your yarn between color changes.

To keep the colorwork rounds (8 – 17) shorter to read, repeat each sequence 4 times to complete the round.

How to change color in crochet:

Color changes are actually quite simple! When you see on the graph that you need to change color, here’s what you’ll do: when making the stitch before the color change, only make the stitch halfway. So, insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop. Before you yarn over again… drop your working yarn, pick up the contrasting color and draw through the loops with that. Now you’re ready to work the next stitch with the new color! You will repeat this process to change back to your original color.

COLOR CHANGE STITCH TUTORIAL

still using color A: Ch 72, join to first ch with a sl st being careful not to twist it. Ch 1. (72 ch)

Rounds 1: using sc (A) x 72

Rounds 2 – 3: using wst from now and throughout (A) x 72

Round 4: (B) x 72

Round 5: repeat Round 2

Rounds 6 – 7: repeat Round 4

*Rounds 8 – 17, repeat each sequence 4 times.

Round 8: (B) x 2, (A) x 7, (B) x 1, (A) x 7, (B) x 1

Round 9: (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 3, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Round 10: (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 3, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Round 11: (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 3, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Round 12: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 4, (B) x 3, (A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1

Round 13: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 5, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 1

Round 14: (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 3, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Round 15: (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 3, (A) x 4, (B) x 3

Round 16: (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 3, (A) x 4, (B) x 3

Crochet Cat Hat

Round 17: (B) x 4, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 3

Rounds 18 – 19: repeat Round 4

Round 20: repeat Round 2

Round 21: repeat Round 4

Rounds 22 – 28: repeat Round 2

You’ll now start working decreasing rounds for the remainder of this pattern.

Now you will start decreasing:

How to decrease waistcoat stitches:

  1. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
  2. Insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook.
  3. Yarn over and pull through all three loops.

There will be times where you have to decrease over previously decreased waistcoat stitches. In those instances, you will insert your hook between the two stitches. See the photos below for reference:

WAISTCOAT STITCH DECREASE TUTORIAL -4

Here, I’m using my tapestry needle to show where you’ll be inserting your hook.

WAISTCOAT STITCH DECREASE TUTORIAL -3

This photo is just about the same as the first one, except I’m about to insert my hook to make the decrease.

Round 29: make one wst in first st and in each of next 6 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 7 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (64 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 30: make one wst in first st and in each of next 5 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 6 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (56 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 31: make one wst in first st and in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 5 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (48 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 32: make one wst in first st and in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (40 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 33: make one wst in first st and in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (32 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 34: make one wst in first st and in the next st, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (24 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 35: make one wst in first st, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in next st, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (16 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Round 36: wst dec over first 2 sts. Wst dec over next 2 sts all the way around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (8 wst, counting each decrease as one stitch)

Sewing the top of the hat:

SEWING THE BRIM OF THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE

Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and weave in and out of the sts along the top of the hat.

SEWING THE BRIM OF THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE

Cinch the top closed.

CLOSE UP THE TOP OF THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE

Pull tight to close completely.

STITCH THE TOP OF THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE

To reinforce it, stitch a cross shape over the top of the hole. To do this, make stitch from top to bottom across the cinched hole, and then again from left to right.

Attaching the brim to the hat:

SET THE BRIM INSIDE THE CROCHET BEANIE

Drop the brim into the hat. Make sure the hat is right side out and the brim seam facing the inside.

STRETCH THE BRIM INSIDE THE CROCHET BEANIE

Stretch it so that it’s fits into the hat.

WHIPSTITCH THE BRIM TO THE CACTUS BEANIE

Whipstitch the edge of the brim to the bottom edge of the hat.

TAKE THE BRIM OUT OF THE BEANIE

Tie off and pull brim the out of the hat.

FOLD THE CROCHET BEANIE BRIM UP

Fold the brim up.

FOLDED BRIM ON THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE

How to read the color graph – Crochet Cat Hat:

Each square on the graph represents one stitch. Just as we crochet from right to left, the graph is to be read from right to left for each round. The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round. To keep the graph small and easier to read, I’ve only included 18 stitches. This sequence is to be repeated a total of 4 times to complete the round.

For the first color-changing round, you will start with color B and work 1 stitch, change color on the last pull-through of the 2nd stitch so that you can begin with color A on stitch 3.

*Carry the yarn you’re not using all the way around. To “carry” yarn means to lay it across the next stitch and crochet over it. Thus you are “carrying” it along until you need to use it again. This eliminates ‘lines’ of yarn across the back of your work.

Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat Color Graph

Color Block Instructions:

Work the number of stitches in each block in the color shown. Repeat each sequence a total of 4 times to complete the round.

Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat

Your cute crochet cat hat is ready to wear! If you made this pattern and love it, please do tag me @spottedhorsedesignco on social media. I love seeing your makes!

Tapestry Crochet Cat Hat

 

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These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.

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