Crochet Tote Bag Pattern with Drawstring

This is a free pattern for a crochet tote bag featuring a drawstring for easy closure. Rows of mesh make it perfect for markets or the beach.


Crochet Tote Bag pattern

The Mesh Crochet Tote Bag is a versatile accessory that’s perfect for a variety of uses. Take it with you to the beach to store your towels, sunscreen, and beach reads, or use it at the market to carry your fresh produce and groceries in eco-friendly style. The convenient drawstring closure ensures that your belongings stay secure, making it practical for everyday outings, picnics, or even as a stylish gym bag. Whether you’re running errands, heading to a yoga class, or enjoying a day out with friends, this tote bag is the perfect companion for any occasion.

Crochet Tote Bag with Drawstring

This Crochet Tote Bag is simple to make, yet comes with lots of texture. Rows of mesh combined with textured stitches, such as the crossed double crochet and puff stitches, add depth and visual appeal to the overall look of the bag. The drawstring closure, made with a contrasting color, not only provides functionality but also serves as a stylish accent. Lastly, if you wish, you can add some fun beads to the drawstring for a stylish accent.

Crochet Market Bag Pattern

Crochet Tote Bag Pattern Details

Pattern written in US terminology

Materials

  • 8 oz of worsted cotton or acrylic yarn
  • G6 (4.00mm) crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle (for sewing in ends)
  • *optional – I-cord knitting machine. I used THIS ONE

Skill level

  • Advanced beginner. This pattern uses beginner friendly stitches, along with a few intermediate stitches/techniques.

Pattern notes

  • This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
  • This pattern in worked in the round from the bottom up.
  • The chain 1 and chain 2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Stitches used and abbreviations

  • sk = skip
  • yo = yarn over
  • ch = chain
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • ps = puff stitch
  • cdc = crossed double crochet
  • sc dec = single crochet decrease
  • dc dec = double crochet decrease

Special Stitches

  • Puff stitch: yo, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Repeat 3 more times. Yo and draw through all loops on your hook.
  • Crossed double crochet: A crossed double crochet is just like making a regular double crochet except with one difference. They are worked in groups of 2 as follows: sk 1 st and make 1 dc in next st. Then you will go back to the skipped st and make 1 dc in the skipped st. This forms a cross. Tip: you will want to make these dcs taller than normal to accomodate the extra length they will need to cross over each other. if you are a visual learner, HERE is a video tutorial for you.
  • Single crochet decrease: insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, draw a loop, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
  • Double crochet decrease: make a dc like normal, but before you pull through the last 2 loops, insert your hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all loops on your hook.

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Pattern Instructions for the Crochet Tote Bag

Round 1: make magic circle, ch 2, 12 dc in circle, join with a sl st to first st (12 dc)

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in first st and in each st around, join with a sl st to first st. (24 dc)

Round 3: ch 2, 2 dc in first st , dc in next st [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first st (36 dc)

Round 4: ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts] repeat from [ to ] around join with a sl st to first st (48 dc)

Round 5: ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts] repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first st. (60 dc)

Round 6: ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first st. (72 dc)

Round 7: ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 5 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts], repeat from [ to ] around, join with sl st to first st. (84 dc)

Round 8: ch 2, 2 dc in first, dc in each of next 6 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first st. (96 dc)

Round 9: ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 7 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first st. (108 dc)

Round 10: ch 2, 2 dc in first, dc in each of next 8 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 8 sts], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first st. (120 dc)

Round 11: ch 4, sk next 3 dc, sl st in next st, ch 4, [sk next 3 dc, sl st in next st, ch 4], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first ch of ch 4 at the beginning of round, sl st into next chain. (30 ch 4 spaces)

Round 12: sl st in same ch 4 space, ch 4, [sl st in next ch 4 space, ch 4], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first ch of ch 4 at the beginning of round, sl st into next chain. (30 ch 4 spaces)

Round 13: sl st in same ch 4 space, ch 4, [sl st in next ch 4 space, ch 4], repeat from [ to ] around, join with a sl st to first ch of ch 4 at the beginning of round. (30 ch 4 spaces)

Round 14: ch 2, 4 dc in same ch 4 space and in each ch 4 space around, join with a sl st to first st. (120 dc)

Round 15: ch 2, sk first st, make 1 dc in next stitch, make 1 dc in skipped stitch (2 cdc made). [Sk next st, make 1 dc in next st, make 1 dc in skipped stitch]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st. (120 cdc)

Round 16: ch 2, dc in first st, dc in next st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st. (120 dc)

Rounds 17-19: repeat rounds 11-13. (30 ch 4 spaces)

Round 20: ch 1, 4 hdc in same ch 4 space and in each ch 4 space around, join with a sl st to first st. (120 hdc)

Round 21: ch 1, hdc in first st, ps in next st [hdc in next st, ps in next st]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st. (60 hdc, 60 ps)

Round 22: ch 1, hdc in first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st. (120 hdc)

Round 23-31: repeat rounds 11-19.

Round 32: ch 1, 4 sc in same ch 4 space and in each ch 4 space around, join with a sl st in first st. (120 sc)

These next few rounds, you will be decreasing in 2 places on each round to give a slight tapered look to the top of the bag. I have included stitch counts if you want them, but honestly, you can just wing it. Pick a place to decrease at the beginning/end of the round and then again at a halfway point. It’s not an exact science 🙂 As long as you are losing 2 sts each round, you’re good.

Round 33: ch 1, sc in first st and in each of next 59 sts, sc dec, sc in each st around until the last 2 sts. Sc dec in last 2 sts. Join with a sl st to first st. (118 sc – if you count the decreases as 1 st.)

Round 34: ch 1, sc in first st and in each of next 58 sts, sc dec, sc in each st around until the last 2 sts. Sc dec in last 2 sts. Join with a sl st to first st. (116 sc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Round 35: ch 1, sc in first st and in each of next 57 sts, sc dec, sc in each st around until the last 2 sts. Sc dec in last 2 sts. Join with a sl st to first st. (114 sc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Round 36: ch 1, sc in first st and in each of next 56 sts, sc dec, sc in each st around until the last 2 sts. Sc dec in last 2 sts. Join with a sl st to first st. (112 sc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Round 37: ch 1, sc in first st and in each of next 5 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, [sc in each of next 6 sts ch 2, skip 2 sts] Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st. (84 sc, 14 ch-2 spaces)

Round 38: ch 1, sc in first st and in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, [sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp], Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st. (112 sc)

Round 39-42: ch 1, sc in next st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st. Do not fasten off. (112 sc)

How to make the strap

Row 1: Ch 2. dc dec, dc in each of next 18 sts, dc dec, ch 2, turn. (20 dc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Row 2: dc dec, dc in each of next 16 sts, dc dec, ch 2, turn. (18 dc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Row 3: dc dec, dc in each of next 14 sts, dc dec, ch 2, turn. (16 dc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Row 4: dc dec, dc in each of next 12 sts, dc dec, ch 2, turn. (14 dc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Row 5: dc dec, dc in each of next 10 sts, dc dec, ch 2, turn. (12 dc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Row 6: dc dec, dc in each of next 8 sts, dc dec, ch 2, turn. (10 dc – counting the decreases as 1 stitch each)

Rows 7-27: dc in first st and in each st across. ch 2, turn (10 dc)

Fasten off after row 27.

Count 34 sts from the last st of row 1 of the strap. Attach your yarn and repeat rows 1-27.

Attaching the ends of the strap together

From the wrong side, sl st the ends together. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Making the drawstring

If you have a little knitting machine that specifically makes I-cords, make a cord approximately 36″ long or to your desired length.

If you do not have a knitting machine, you can still make an I-cord! Simply ch for approximately 36″, turn, sl st in the 2 ch from the hook and in each ch all the way across. Fasten off and weave in your end.

Now weave your I-cord through the holes you made on round 38. Knot the ends of your I-cord or add beads if desired.

Crochet Tote Bag pattern

 

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These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.

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