Winter Wonderland Crochet Hat Pattern
I spend quite a bit of time outdoors during the winter and where I live it’s beanie weather 6+ months out of the year! Needless to say, I like to have a plethora of hats, scarves and gloves ready to put on at any moment.
Although I prefer practicality over fashion, I still like pretty colors and designs. After completing my Camper Blanket, some of the leftover colors of Hue + Me yarn struck me and I knew I had to use that combination to make something. Of course, I never need an excuse to crochet a new beanie for myself.
Soon, this lovely Winter Wonderland Crochet Hat was ready to wear! I chose the colors Salt, Mustard and Sea Glass – but you can choose any colors that suit your fancy!
This chunky crochet beanie is made from the super soft Hue + Me yarn from Lion Brand. I have been obsessed with this yarn lately and have been making everything using it. It’s a bit thicker than a traditional #5 yarn, but still not bulky enough for #6 and the COLORS! Such a beautiful palette. Check out this lovely yarn HERE.
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Crochet Winter Beanie
This colorful crochet winter hat is a great gift for the holiday season! Even though this design does use tapestry crochet, with the chunky yarn, it really works up quickly.
Do you love chunky beanies and tapestry crochet? You’ll love these hats also:
Free Crochet Pattern for the Winter Wonderland Hat
MATERIALS:
- 3 skeins of HUE + ME bulky yarn from Lion Brand in these colors: **Hue + Me is NOT a true #5 bulky yarn, it is closer to a super bulky yarn (#6). Please keep this in mind if you choose to use a different yarn.
- Salt
- Sea Glass
- Mustard
- M-13 (9.00mm) crochet hook or whatever size needed to obtain gauge
- scissors
- tapestry needle
- faux fur pom pom
SKILL LEVEL:
- Intermediate. The maker should have basic knowledge of how to change colors. This pattern also uses slip stitch crochet and the waistcoat stitch – both of which require the maker to be able to tension their yarn accordingly.
PATTERN NOTES:
- This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
- This pattern is worked in the round.
- The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- Loose tension is very important for this particular design! You may need to go up a hook size or two if you have very tight tension.
- The brim and the hat are worked separately. The brim is worked in short rows and the hat is worked in the round, from the bottom up. The two pieces are assembled at the end.
STITCHES USED AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- sc = single crochet
- wst = waistcoat stitch
- wst dec = waistcoat stitch decrease
- A = color A, I used Salt
- B = color B, I used Mustard
- C = color C, I used Sea Glass
The Waistcoat Stitch:
The Waistcoat Stitch is a knit look stitch that requires loose tension. However, it’s quite simple – it’s just a single crochet! The only difference is where you make the stitch. The most important tip I can give you is to make sure you make this stitch with very loose tension! Otherwise, this will be a very frustrating experience for you. I suggest making a few rounds first just to get the hang of it. SCROLL DOWN FOR PHOTO TUTORIALS.
GAUGE:
- Make 3 rounds of the hat first and then measure. You should have: 3 wst rounds x 3 sts = 1 square inch.
FINISHED SIZE:
(laying flat and assembled but without Pom Pom):
- Length: approx. 8.5″
- Width at brim: approx. 9.5″
Brim width measurements:
- 4.25″, unfolded
- 2.25″, folded
How to adjust the size:
This hat is designed for an average adult woman. I have not made this hat for a child, only the adult size. To make this hat smaller, you could use a lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook.
Instructions for the brim – Crochet Winter Hat Pattern:
using color A, ch 13
*A note on the brim width: You can make the brim the length of your choice. Simply add more chains. Once you’ve made 5-6 rows, fold the brim in half (this is a folded brim) and assess if it’s a good length for you.
Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sl sts)
Row 2: working in the back loops only in every row from now on, make 1 sl st blo in each st all the way across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sl sts)
Repeat row 2 until the brim stretches comfortably around your head. IMPORTANT: Fold the brim in half lengthwise (as if you were folding up the brim on a beanie) and then stretch it around your head. Don’t stretch it around your head unfolded, otherwise you will end up with a brim that is too tight. A folded brim vs. an unfolded brim are two different lengths so it’s super important to size it to your head when it’s folded.
Sewing the brim of the crochet beanie
When your brim has reached the length that is comfortable for you, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the ends together.
Fold your brim so the ends are together and whip stitch across.
Once you’ve stitched all the way across, fasten off and flip it around so that the seam is on the inside.
Written instructions for the Winter Wonderland Crochet Hat
still using the Color A:
Ch 48, join to first ch with a sl st being careful not to twist it. Ch 1. (48 ch)
NOTE: work one wst in each st all the way around. The letters correspond to the color used – please reference the material list. The number indicates how many stitches you’ll make with each color.
At the end of every round, you will join with a sl st to the first st of that round and ch 1.
← Round 1: (A) x 48
← Round 2: (A) x 48
← Round 3: (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
← Round 4: (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
← Round 5: (A) x 2, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1
← Round 6: (A) x 2, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1
← Round 7: (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Winter Wonderland Crochet Hat
← Round 8: (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
← Round 9: (A) x 2, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1
← Round 10: (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 1
← Round 11: (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (C) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
← Round 12: (C) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (C) x 1
← Round 13: (C) x 2, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 3, (A) x 3, (C) x 1
← Round 14: (C) x 3, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 5, (A) x 1, (C) x 2
Now you will start decreasing:
← Round 15: make one wst in first st and in each of the next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (40 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
← Round 16: make one wst in first st and in each of the next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (32 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
← Round 17: make one wst in first st and in the next st, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (24 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
← Round 18: make one wst in first st, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in the next st, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (16 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
← Round 19: wst dec over first 2 sts. [Wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (8 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch) Fasten off and weave in all ends.
SEWING THE TOP OF THE BEANIE:
Thread the tail on to a tapestry needle and weave in and out of the sts along the top of the hat.
Cinch the the top closed.
Pull tight to close completely.
To reinforce it, stitch a cross shape over the top of the hole. To do this, make stitch from top to bottom across the cinched hole, and then again from left to right.
ATTACHING THE BRIM TO THE BEANIE:
Drop the brim into the hat.
Stretch it so that it’s fits into the hat.
Whip stitch the edge of the brim to the bottom edge of the hat.
Tie off and pull brim the out of the hat.
Fold the brim up.
WAISTCOAST STITCH PHOTO TUTORIALS:
Normally, we insert our hook under the loops on top.
Instead, you will insert your hook in between the V or ‘legs’ of the stitch. Here, I’ve inserted my needle behind the V so you can see better what I’m talking about.
Here, I’ve inserted my needle in the center of the V to show you exactly where you will be inserting your hook to make the stitch.
HOW TO DECREASE WAISTCOAT STITCHES:
- Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through all three loops.
There will be times where you have to decrease over previously decreased waistcoat stitches. In those instances, you will insert your hook between the two stitches. See the photos below for reference:
Here, I’m using my tapestry needle to show where you’ll be inserting your hook.
This photo is just about the same as the first one, except I’m about to insert my hook to make the decrease.
HOW TO CHANGE COLOR IN CROCHET:
Color changes are actually quite simple! When you see on the graph that you need to change color, here’s what you’ll do: When making the stitch before the color change, only make the stitch halfway. So, insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop. Before you yarn over again…! Drop your working yarn, pick up the contrasting color and draw through the loops with that. Now you’re ready to work the next stitch with the new color! You will repeat this process to change back to your original color.
How to read the color graph – Winter Wonderland Hat:
Each square on the graph represents one stitch. The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round. Work one wst for each square, noting the 6-st repeat will be worked 8 times, reading rounds from right to left.
The numbers on the top and bottom correspond with the stitch numbers for each round. You will begin each round using color A (Salt). Pay attention to your stitch count so you don’t miss where you’re supposed to start your next color.
For the first color-changing round, you will start with color A and work 2 stitches, change color on the 3rd stitch and begin with Color B (Mustard) on stitch 4. After you complete stitch 6, go back to the beginning of the graph and repeat that same sequence all the way around.
*I did not carry my yarn because I didn’t want the yarn to show through. Instead, I ‘floated’ the yarn, meaning I picked it up every 3-4 stitches and worked over it for one stitch and then dropped it again. This way it does not show through.
Your Winter Wonderland crochet hat is ready to wear! If you made this pattern and love it, please do tag me @spottedhorsedesignco on social media. I love seeing your makes!
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These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.
