Diamond Crochet Fingerless Gloves
I don’t know about you, but I find fingerless gloves to be so practical. Because of their versatility, I will generally grab my fingerless gloves first before any of my other gloves. They are perfect for mild fall and winter days. Additionally, my fingers are always ‘free’ if I need to use my phone or something.
I designed these diamond crochet fingerless gloves using the waistcoat stitch. First of all, the waistcoat stitch has a lovely knit-look to it making it a great stitch for tapestry crochet. Moreover, the waistcoat stitch creates a solid fabric resulting in a nice, warm glove.
Don’t worry if you’ve never made the waistcoat stitch or done colorwork before. I have several photo tutorials below. Be sure to read through the tutorials first before starting these so you are to make these beautiful fingerless gloves.
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Crochet Winter Patterns
Since I live in the north, having plenty of cold-weather accessories is a necessity. Here are a few of my favorite winter crochet designs:
Color Block Instructions
The premium version of this pattern includes easy-to-follow color block instructions. Print it off or use it on your tablet.
Free Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern
Materials:
- two contrasting colors of worsted-weight yarn, 1, 3.5-oz skein each. I chose Whims Merino in Teal and Light Gray from Furls.
- G+ (4.5mm) crochet hook or whatever size is needed to obtain gauge. (some find it easier to use a 5 mm hook)
- scissors
- tapestry needle
Skill Level:
- Intermediate. The maker should have basic knowledge of how to change colors. This pattern also uses slip stitch crochet and the waistcoat stitch – both of which require the maker to be able to tension their yarn accordingly.
Pattern Notes:
- This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
- The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- Loose tension is very important for this particular design! You may need to go up a hook size or two if you have very tight tension.
- The fingerless gloves are worked in the round. The cuffs are worked with joined rounds, while the colorwork section is worked continuously, without joining.
- The colorwork portion is worked using the waistcoat stitch. To avoid sounding redundant and to keep the pattern easier to read, I’ve only included written instructions for the colors used in each round.
- There are 3 sets of instructions given for the colorwork section. Written instructions, a color graph, and color block instructions are all given depending on your preferred pattern-reading method.
Stitches Used and Abbreviations (US TERMS):
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- sc = single crochet
- wst = waistcoat stitch
- hdc = half double crochet
- 3rd loop only = work in the 3rd loop of a hdc (this is the very last loop on a stitch, the one furthest away from you)
- A = color A
- B = color B
The Waistcoat Stitch:
The Waistcoat Stitch is a knit-look stitch that requires loose tension. However, it’s quite simple – it’s just a single crochet! The only difference is where you insert your hook to make the stitch. The most important tip I can give you is to make sure you make this stitch with very loose tension! Otherwise, this will be a very frustrating experience for you. I suggest making a few rounds first just to get the hang of it.
Normally, we insert our hook under the loops on top.
Instead, you will insert your hook in between the V or ‘legs’ of the stitch. Here, I’ve inserted my needle behind the V so you can see better what I’m talking about.
Here, I’ve inserted my needle in the center of the V to show you exactly where you will be inserting your hook to make the stitch.
Gauge:
- Make 3 rounds of the hat first and then measure. You should have: 5 wst rounds x 3.5 sts = 1 square inch.
Finished Size:
Make 3 rounds of the cuff first and then measure. You should have: 3 hdc blo rounds x 4 sts = 1 square inch.
For the wst rounds, you should have: 5 rounds x 4 sts = 1 inch
How to adjust the size:
These fingerless gloves are designed for an average adult female’s hands. I have not made these for a child, only the adult size. To make these smaller, you could use a lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook. Alternatively, if you need to make a large adult size, you could go up a hook size or two.
How to change color in crochet:
Color changes are actually quite simple! When you see on the graph that you need to change color, here’s what you’ll do: when making the stitch before the color change, only make the stitch halfway. So, insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop. Before you yarn over again… drop your working yarn, pick up the contrasting color and draw through the loops with that. Now you’re ready to work the next stitch with the new color! You will repeat this process to change back to your original color.
Written Instructions for the Crochet Fingerless Gloves
For the colorwork rounds (8 – 32) there are 3 sets of instructions depending on your preference. There are written instructions below. There is also a color graph and color block instructions. Scroll to the bottom if you prefer either of these.
*From Rounds 8 – 32, all rounds will be worked using the waistcoat stitch. Do not join. You will work in continuous rounds, so be sure to use a stitch marker. Carry your yarn between color changes.
To keep the colorwork rounds (8 – 32) shorter to read, repeat each sequence 3 times to complete the round. Except Round 21 is written entirely because you will be making the thumb hole on this round.
using color A: Ch 30, join to first ch with a sl st being careful not to twist it. Ch 1. (30 ch)
Rounds 1: work one hdc in each ch all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first st, ch 1. (30 hdc)
Rounds 2 – 6: working in the third loops only, work one hdc 3rd loop only in each st all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Ch 1. (30 hdc)
Round 7: work one sc 3rd loop only in each st all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Ch 1. (30 sc)
Rounds 8 – 32 are colorwork rounds. To keep these instructions shorter and easier to read, repeat each sequence 3 times to complete the round.
For the first color-changing round, you will start with color B and work 1 stitch, change color on the last pull-through of the 2nd stitch so that you can begin with color A on stitch 3.
*Carry the yarn you’re not using all the way around. To “carry” yarn means to lay it across the next stitch and crochet over it. Thus you are “carrying” it along until you need to use it again. This eliminates ‘lines’ of yarn across the back of your work.
Remember: you are now working in continuous rounds. You are no longer joining rounds so be sure to use a stitch marker. You will also add color B now.
Round 8: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 4
Round 9: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 10: (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Round 11: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 12: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 4
Round 13: (A) x 1, (B) x 6, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 14: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Round 15: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Round 16: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Round 17: (A) x 1, (B) x 6, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 18: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 4
Round 19: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 20: (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Right Thumb
Round 21: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, ch 8, skip next 8 sts, (B) x 2
Left Thumb
Round 21: (B) x 1, (A) x 2, ch 8, skip next 8 sts, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
*work the wst until the 8 chs, then (still following the color chart) work a regular sc in each of the 8 chs, then continue with wst.
**You will have a line of yarn from the skipped stitches. You can do one of two things: cut the yarn and reattach it (probably the easiest) OR you can leave it attached and just crochet over it when you go to attach the thumb piece.
Round 22: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 4
Round 23: (A) x 1, (B) x 6, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 24: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Round 25: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Round 26: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Round 27: (A) x 1, (B) x 6, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 28: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 4
Round 29: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 30: (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Round 31: (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Round 32: (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 4
working with just color A
Round 33: work one hdc in each stitch all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Ch 1.
Rounds 34 & 35: now working the the 3rd loop only, repeat Round 2.
Round 36: sl st 3rd loop only in each st all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Ch 1.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Make the thumb piece.
I had 16 stitches, but this is not a hard and fast number. Do what works for you.
*you can even do a hdc decrease on each ‘crease’ or side of the thumb hole to avoid any gaps or if you have slender fingers.
Attach color A to your hook. Insert your hook into any stitch of the thumb hole and ch 1.
Round 1: work one hdc in each stitch all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Ch 1.
Rounds 2 & 3: work one hdc 3rd loop only in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Ch 1. (if you wish to have a longer piece for your thumb, simply continue working hdc 3rd loop only rounds to your desired length.)
Round 4: sl st 3rd loop only in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first st.
Fasten off and weave in any loose ends.
Color Graph for the Crochet Fingerless Gloves:
Each square on the graph represents one stitch. Just as we crochet from right to left, the graph is to be read from right to left for each round. The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round. To keep the graph small and easier to read, I’ve only included 10 stitches. This sequence is to be repeated a total of 3 times to complete the round.
For the first color-changing round, you will start with color B and work 1 stitch, change color on the last pull-through of the 2nd stitch so that you can begin with color A on stitch 3.
*Carry the yarn you’re not using all the way around. To “carry” yarn means to lay it across the next stitch and crochet over it. Thus you are “carrying” it along until you need to use it again. This eliminates ‘lines’ of yarn across the back of your work.
Color Block Instructions:
Work the number of stitches in each block in the color shown. Repeat each sequence a total of 3 times to complete the round.
Your beautiful crochet fingerless gloves are ready to wear! If you made this pattern and love it, please do tag me @spottedhorsedesignco on social media. I love seeing your makes!
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