It’s not a coaster nor is it a placemat. It’s a snack mat! When I originally designed this geometric crochet mat, I wanted something that could fit my morning mug of tea and my bagel or muffin. And I’ve gotta say – this is so perfect!
Normally I’d either take out a small plate or a paper towel to set my bagel or muffin on. But now I don’t have to wash an extra plate or use up a paper towel. Now, I can just grab one of these handy mats anytime I want a drink and snack.
Simply shake these out to remove any crumbs. For spills, these crochet mats can easily be tossed into the wash since they are made of cotton yarn.

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Love crocheting with colors? You may love these designs also:
Geometric Crochet Mat Pattern
My son has also been enjoying these crochet mats as well for his snacks. He will usually put a handful of pretzels or other crunchy snacks on his mat next to his glass of water.
If you truly want to make this more of a coaster size, you can easily eliminate stitches in groups of 6. You can keep the same amount of rows. But if you don’t want it as long, simply just take away a group of 6 stitches either at the beginning or at the end. Or you can even take away a set of 6 stitches at the beginning and at the end.

To see all the steps and techniques used in this crochet pattern be sure to watch this video tutorial:
Free Snack Mat Crochet Pattern
Materials:
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn in two contrasting colors or your choice (colors I used are below):
- 1/2 skein Ecru (color A)
- 1/2 skein Dragonfly (color B)
- 4.00 mm crochet hook (G6)
- scissors
- tapestry needle
Skill Level:
- Intermediate. In this pattern, you will be changing color while crocheting. You will use two colors at once. The maker should already have knowledge of tapestry crochet, basic stitches and terminology to make this snack mat.

STITCHES USED AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- yo = back loop only
- ws = waistcoat stitch
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong sided
- A = color A
- B = color B
GAUGE (gauge is not super important for this pattern):
- 4 ws x 5 rows = 1 square inch
FINISHED SIZE (approximate):
- Length: 9”
- Width: 5.75”
How to read this pattern:
To keep the wording to a minimum and not so redundant, I have only stated how many stitches per color you will be making in each row. For example, this is how you will read this excerpt:
“(B) x 6, (A) x 6“ means to start with color B, work 5 stitches with color B, start the 6th stitch with color B and on the last pull-through before completing the stitch, drop color B, pick up color A and finish the stitch with that. You are now ready to work the next 6 stitches with color A.
Instructions for the Geometric Snack Mat
This pattern is worked on the right side only. This means that you will fasten off your yarn at the end of every row and begin by attaching new yarn at the start of each row. This keeps the colorwork looking clean.
Start each row with both colors. Lay the one you’re not using across the stitches – being mindful of the fact that you’ll be using the ends to make the fringe at the end – so make sure when you lay the unused color across the stitches that you’re leaving about 3″-4″ off the end. *Photo tutorials are below.
Carry the yarn you’re not using. In other words, lay the yarn you’re not currently working with across the stitches and work your crochet stitches over it with your current yarn color.
*The rows do not state this, but you will fasten off your yarn at the end of every row. Leave about 3″-4″ at the end to give you enough length to knot the ends and turn them into fringe. Attach the current color at the beginning of every row. Make sure to lay the color you’re not currently using across the stitches (remember to have 3″-4″ of ‘overhang’ for the fringe at the end.)
The stitch count at the end of every row will be 36.
Begin using the color Ecru or whatever you’ve chosen to use as your Color A. You’ll add in Color B in row 2. No need to add it now 🙂


At the start of each row, lay the color you’re not currently using across the row. Attach the current color, make your first ws of the new row in the last ws worked from the row below, and begin working over the unused yarn.
*I did not chain 1 after attaching the new yarn at each row. I simply attached the yarn in the last ws made in the row below and made my first stitch.
Using color A, ch 37.
Row 1: (A) x 36
Row 2: (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6
Row 3: (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5
Row 4: (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4
Row 5: (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3
Row 6: (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2
Row 7: (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1
Row 8: (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6
Row 9: (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5
Row 10: (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4
Row 11: (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3
Row 12: (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2
Row 13: (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1
Row 14: (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6
Row 15: (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5
Row 16: (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4
Row 17: (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3
Row 18: (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 4, (B) x 4, (A) x 2
Row 19: (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 5, (B) x 5, (A) x 1
Row 20: (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6
Row 21: (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5
Row 22: (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4
Row 23: (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3, (A) x 3, (B) x 3
Row 24: (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2, (A) x 2, (B) x 4, (A) x 4, (B) x 2
Row 25: (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 5, (A) x 5, (B) x 1
Row 26: (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6, (B) x 6, (A) x 6
Row 27: (A) x 36
TO MAKE THE FRINGE:
Take 2-4 strands from the ends (I chose to do 4) and make a knot. You may have one strand more or less on the corners – not a big deal 🙂 Trim the ends to your desired length.


How to read the color graph:
Each square on the graph represents one waistcoat stitch.
All rows are worked on the RS – from right to left. The graph should be read from right to left for every row.

Color Block Instructions:
Work the number of stitches in each block in the color shown. White blocks = color A. Blue blocks = color B.

That’s it! Your geometric crochet mat is all finished! What colors did you end up using? I’d love to see your work 🙂
If you love this pattern, please do share and tag me @spottedhorsedesignco on social media. I absolutely love seeing all your makes ❤️

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