How to Crochet a Scrap Yarn Blanket (Free Pattern)
If you’re anything like me, you probably have a collection of leftover yarn from past projects just waiting for a purpose. This scrap yarn blanket was designed to help you turn those odds and ends into something functional and completely unique. This pattern can be easily adapted to fit your yarn, your style, and your desired blanket size. No two blankets will ever be exactly alike, which makes this the perfect project for working through your yarn stash.
About This Scrap Yarn Blanket
One of my favorite things about this blanket is that no two versions will ever be exactly alike. This is a true scrap project designed to help you crochet a scrap yarn blanket using the yarn you have on hand, which means your blanket may look completely different from mine…and that’s exactly the point!
For my blanket, I used 12 different colors of Heartland worsted weight yarn. Some were full skeins, while others were partial skeins left over from previous projects. Because each color contained a different amount of yarn, every color block in my blanket ended up being a different size.
My finished blanket measures approximately 44 inches wide by 60 inches long, including the border. Before adding the border, the blanket measured approximately 40 inches wide.
“Yarn-Eating” Stitches
When I first started designing this blanket, I had a very specific goal in mind: I wanted stitches that would help me actually use up yarn. Not conserve it.
So I intentionally looked for “yarn-eating” stitches and landed on the Forked Cluster Stitch. I love that it creates a clean, textured fabric without being overly busy, but still works up fairly quickly and uses a satisfying amount of yarn.
I also chose a bobble border for the same reason. It’s one of those borders that really soaks up yarn, and in this case that was exactly what I wanted. Instead of trying to minimize yarn usage, I just wanted to use it up…I wanted it gone. Lol.
I know we often avoid yarn-heavy stitches and borders, but for this project, that was actually the point. I wasn’t trying to make my yarn go further…I was trying to finally use it up.
Full Video Tutorial for the Scrappy Blanket
Gauge
Gauge is not especially important for this project, but it may help you estimate yarn usage and finished size.
12 stitches and 9 rows = 4 inches in the Forked Cluster Stitch pattern.
Customizing Your Scrap Yarn Blanket Size
One of the things I love most about this pattern is how easy it is to customize. Whether you want to make a small baby blanket, a lap blanket, or a larger throw, you can adjust the width simply by changing your foundation stitch count.
My gauge is approximately 12 stitches and 9 rows = 4 inches in the Forked Cluster Stitch pattern. This works out to about 3 stitches per inch. Using that measurement, you can estimate the width of your blanket before you begin.
For example:
- 60 stitches = approximately 20 inches wide
- 90 stitches = approximately 30 inches wide
- 120 stitches = approximately 40 inches wide
- 150 stitches = approximately 50 inches wide
These measurements are approximate and may vary slightly based on your tension and yarn choice.
When adjusting the width, remember that your starting stitch count should always be an even number. The Forked Cluster Stitch itself can be worked over any number of stitches, but the Crossed Double Crochet transition rows require an even stitch count to work out correctly.
If you only have a small amount of scrap yarn available, consider starting with fewer stitches to create a baby blanket or lap blanket. If you have a large stash to work through, increasing the starting stitch count can help create a wider blanket that stays proportional as it grows longer.
Don’t worry if your gauge doesn’t match mine exactly. Just work up a small swatch, measure how many stitches you have per inch, and use that number to determine your starting stitch count. The math is the same; you’ll simply be using your gauge instead of mine. Just be sure your final foundation stitch count is an even number so the Crossed Double Crochet transition rows work out properly.
Yarn Information
All of my color blocks, including the transition rows and border, were made using Heartland yarn by Lion Brand.
- Weight: Worsted Weight (#4)
- Skein Weight: 5 oz / 142 g
- Yardage: 251 yards / 230 meters
As a general reference, one full skein of Heartland yarn allowed me to crochet approximately 12 rows (120 stitches across) of the Forked Cluster Stitch pattern (a two-row repeat) plus one additional row of single crochet.
Keep in mind that your results may vary depending on your gauge and yarn choice. For my blanket, I used approximately two full skeins of my contrast color for all transition rows and the border.
Adjusting the Scrap Yarn Blanket Size
Because this is a scrap blanket, the finished length will depend entirely on how much yarn you have available. Unlike a traditional pattern with a set number of rows, you’ll continue adding color blocks until you reach your desired length or run out of scraps.
If you have a large scrap stash, you may want to start with a wider blanket than I did. My blanket began with 120 Foundation Single Crochet stitches and finished at approximately 40 inches wide before the border was added. With the amount of scrap yarn I had, this width worked well for creating a blanket that was proportional to the amount of yarn I had on hand.
When I was making my blanket, I found myself getting close to the point where it could have become a long rectangle rather than a traditionally shaped throw blanket. If I had significantly more yarn, I would have increased my starting stitch count to create a wider blanket. This is something to consider before you begin, especially if you have a large scrap stash that you’re hoping to use up.
If you expect to have enough yarn to make a much longer blanket, consider increasing your starting stitch count to create a wider blanket. Doing so will help maintain balanced proportions and prevent the blanket from becoming overly long and narrow.
The Forked Cluster Stitch can be worked over any number of stitches, but because the transition rows use Crossed Double Crochet stitches, your starting stitch count should be an even number. Feel free to customize the width of your blanket by choosing any even number of Foundation Single Crochet stitches.
Remember, this pattern is intended to be flexible. No two scrap blankets will be exactly alike, and that’s part of what makes each one special. Use the yarn you have, adjust the size as needed, and enjoy watching your scraps come together into a blanket.
Not a Scrap Yarn Fan? That’s Okay!
While this blanket was designed as a scrap-busting project, there’s no rule that says you have to use leftovers. If you prefer a more planned look, you can absolutely choose a specific color palette and create stripes in whatever widths you’d like.
The beauty of this pattern is its flexibility. Some makers may enjoy the randomness of working until each skein runs out, while others may prefer carefully planned color changes for a more coordinated design. Both approaches work beautifully.
If you’d like to plan your blanket in advance, use the gauge and finished measurements provided as a guide for estimating yarn requirements. Keep in mind that one full skein of Heartland yarn yielded approximately 12 rows of the Forked Cluster Stitch pattern plus one additional row of single crochet in my blanket. This can help you estimate how many rows each color will produce when planning your stripe sequence.
Whether you’re using a basket of scraps, a carefully curated color palette, or a combination of both, this pattern can easily be adapted to create a blanket that’s uniquely yours.
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is written in English using standard US crochet terms.
- The chain 1 or 2 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- Each color block begins and ends with a row of single crochet stitches.
- The Forked Cluster Stitch is worked as a two-row repeat. One forked cluster row, and one single crochet row.
- Always end a color block on a single crochet row before changing to your transition color.
- Each color block is separated by a transition row worked in Crossed Double Crochet stitches using the contrast color.
- Before finishing a color block, make sure you have enough yarn remaining to complete one final row of single crochet.
- This can be made in any multiple as long as it’s an even number.
Materials
- Your own stash of worsted yarn! I had 13 skeins of Heartland worsted yarn to use up. I used 11 skeins in various colors, and 2 skeins of the contrast color, which was used for the transition rows and border.
- H8 (5.00mm) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle (for sewing in ends)
- Tape measure for measuring gauge
Skill Level: Easy
- If you can single crochet, double crochet, and are comfortable learning a new stitch, you can make this blanket. The construction is very straightforward, and once you get the hang of the Forked Cluster Stitch, you’ll simply alternate between two rows for the majority of the project.
- The only thing that makes this pattern a little different is that it’s worked as a stash-busting recipe rather than a traditional row-by-row pattern. Instead of following a set number of rows and color changes, you’ll be working with the yarn you have available and deciding when it’s time to move on to the next color.
Stitches Used and Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sc = single crochet
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- yo = yarn over
- dc = double crochet
- bbl = bobble
- double crochet cluster
- forked cluster
- crossed double crochet
Special Stitches
fhdc (foundation single crochet):
- Video tutorial: HERE
Double Crochet Cluster:
Forked Cluster Stitch:
Crossed Double Crochet:
Bobble Border:
Gauge
4-inch square for the Forked Cluster Stitch pattern:
12 stitches = 4 inches (about 3 stitches per inch)
9 rows = 4 inches (about 2.25 rows per inch)
Measurements
- Approx. 40″ wide, without border. After the border is added, 44″ wide x 60″ tall.
Scrappy Forked Cluster Blanket Pattern
Foundation
Foundation Row: Work 120 Foundation Single Crochet stitches. Ch 2, turn.
Alternative Foundation: Ch 121. Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 1 single crochet in each chain across. Ch 2 and turn.
Row A: Forked Cluster Stitch Row
- Yarn over and insert your hook into the first stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
- You should now have 5 loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through 3 loops. Three loops remain on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through the remaining 3 loops.
Your first Forked Cluster Stitch is complete.
To make the next Forked Cluster Stitch:
- Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch where the previous Forked Cluster Stitch ended.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop.
- You should now have 5 loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
- Yarn over and pull through the remaining 3 loops.
Repeat these steps across the row.
When you reach the end of the row, work 1 double crochet in the final stitch. This stitch is worked in addition to the final Forked Cluster Stitch, meaning the last stitch of the row will contain both the final Forked Cluster Stitch and one double crochet.
Ch 1 and turn.
Row B: Single Crochet Row
Work 1 single crochet in each stitch across. Ch 2 and turn.
First Color Block
Continue alternating:
- Row A: Forked Cluster Stitch Row
- Row B: Single Crochet Row
Repeat Rows A and B until you have almost used all of your current color.
Important: Always finish your color block after completing a Row B (Single Crochet Row). Do not stop after a Forked Cluster Stitch Row. Once you’ve completed your final Row B, fasten off your yarn and turn your work.
Transition Row
Making sure you have turned your work (as if you had chained 1 and turned), attach your contrast color. Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Work 1 double crochet in the same stitch where you joined. Skip the next stitch. Work 1 double crochet in the following stitch. Go back and work 1 double crochet in the skipped stitch.
Your first Crossed Double Crochet is complete.
[Skip the next stitch, work 1 double crochet in the following stitch, then work 1 double crochet in the skipped stitch.] Repeat from [ to ] across the row.
When you reach the final stitch, work 1 double crochet in the last stitch. Fasten off and turn your work.
Next Color Block
Making sure you have turned your work (as if you had chained 1 and turned), attach your next color. Ch 1. Work 1 single crochet in the first stitch and each stitch across. Ch 2 and turn.
Continue alternating:
- Row A: Forked Cluster Stitch Row
- Row B: Single Crochet Row
Repeat Rows A and B until you have almost used all of your current color.
Always finish on a Row B before fastening off and working the next Transition Row.
Continue repeating Color Blocks and Transition Rows until your blanket reaches the desired length or you have used up your scraps. Your blanket will begin and end with a color block. After your last color block, it’s time to add our border.
Border: Round 1
Need a Little Extra Help?
If you’d like a more in-depth walkthrough of the border, including step-by-step photos and a full video tutorial, be sure to check out the companion border tutorial before you begin. It walks you through every step of the border from start to finish.
Photo Tutorial: HERE
Video Tutorial: HERE
After completing your final color block, make sure you have ended on a Row B (Single Crochet Row). Fasten off and turn your blanket so the right side is facing you.
The border is worked in the round and both rounds are worked with the right side facing you.
Using your contrast color (the same color used for the transition rows), attach your yarn in any corner of the blanket. I chose to attach mine in the upper right-hand corner, where I would have continued crocheting had I kept my previous color attached.
Ch 1. Work 1 single crochet in the same stitch where you joined. Work 1 single crochet in each stitch across the top edge of the blanket. In the final stitch, work 3 single crochet stitches to form the first corner.
First Side
Working down the side of the blanket, place:
- 1 single crochet in the side of each Single Crochet Row
- 2 single crochet stitches in the side of each Forked Cluster Stitch Row
Continue in this manner until you reach the bottom corner. Work 3 single crochet stitches in the corner stitch to form the second corner.
Bottom Edge
Work 1 single crochet in each stitch across the bottom of the blanket. In the final stitch, work 3 single crochet stitches to form the third corner.
Second Side
Working up the remaining side of the blanket, place:
- 1 single crochet in the side of each Single Crochet Row
- 2 single crochet stitches in the side of each Forked Cluster Stitch Row
Continue until you reach the final corner. Work 3 single crochet stitches in the corner stitch to form the fourth corner. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet of the round. Round 1 complete.
Border: Round 2 (Bobble Round)
Note: This round is worked with the right side facing you.
Join your yarn in any single crochet from Round 1. Ch 5.
Locate the back bump of the 3rd chain from the hook. To form a double crochet cluster, repeat these steps 4 times:
- Yo and insert your hook into the back bump.
- Yo and pull up a loop.
- Yo and pull through 2 loops.
You should have 5 loops remaining on your hook. Yo and pull through all 5 loops. Your first cluster is complete.
Second Cluster
Now we’ll make a second cluster directly on top of the first one. It may look a little strange at this point, but trust the process!
Ch 3. Locate the back bump of the 3rd chain from the hook. Work another cluster exactly as before:
- Yo and insert your hook into the back bump.
- Yo and pull up a loop.
- Yo and pull through 2 loops.
Repeat these steps a total of 4 times in the same back bump. You should have 5 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all 5 loops.
Forming the Bobble
Locate the two horizontal bars at the base of the first cluster. Insert your hook through both bars.
Join the two clusters together with a slip stitch. Your bobble is complete.
Ch 3. Skip the next 3 stitches of Round 1. Work 1 single crochet in the next stitch.
Ch 5, work a cluster in the back bump of the 3rd chain from the hook, ch 3, work a second cluster in the back bump of the 3rd chain from the hook, join the clusters together with a slip stitch, ch 3, skip 3 stitches, single crochet in the next stitch.
Repeat these steps all the way around the blanket. Do not make any special adjustments in the corners. Simply continue working the pattern repeat around each corner as established. When you reach the beginning of the round, join with a slip stitch and fasten off.
Finishing the Bobble Round
Because every blanket is a little different, your stitch count may not work out perfectly when you reach the end of the round. And that’s okay! You may get lucky and end with exactly 3 stitches remaining, allowing you to complete one final repeat before joining. If so, simply finish the repeat and join to the beginning of the round.
In my case, I had 5 stitches remaining. I skipped the first 2 stitches, worked a single crochet in the next stitch, made one final bobble, skipped the remaining 2 stitches, and then joined to the beginning of the round.
If you end up with 4 stitches remaining, you could simply skip those stitches and join to the beginning of the round.
The important thing to remember is that this border is very forgiving. No one is going to count your stitches or inspect your corners! When you reach the end of the round, simply do whatever looks the neatest and makes the most sense based on the number of stitches you have remaining. Once the blanket is finished, no one will ever know the difference.
Final Thoughts on the Scrappy Yarn Blanket
Learning how to crochet a scrap yarn blanket is one of the best ways to put those leftover skeins to good use. This easy stash-busting pattern allows you to work with whatever yarn you have available, creating a blanket that is as unique as your crochet journey. Whether your scraps are carefully coordinated or completely random, you’ll end up with a beautiful blanket that’s full of personality.
If you’re looking for a fun way to use up leftover yarn, this pattern will show you how to crochet a scrap yarn blanket that’s completely unique to your stash. Designed with flexibility in mind, you can crochet a scrap yarn blanket using partial skeins, full skeins, or a combination of both. The result is a cozy, colorful blanket that not only helps reduce your yarn stash but also tells the story of projects you’ve made along the way.
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These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.
