How to Crochet the Braided Ridge Blanket Throw
The Braided Ridge Blanket is a cozy textured crochet blanket pattern featuring cables paired with the almond ridge stitch. This design was inspired by the Finger Lakes region here in New York, with the cables representing winding grape vines and the almond ridge stitch symbolizing the movement of water through the lakes. If you love relaxing crochet projects with lots of texture, this blanket is such a fun one to make.
The Story Behind the Braided Ridge Blanket
The Braided Ridge Blanket actually began as a strip design for the Road Trip CAL, which was a collaborative project featuring 12 crochet designers from all over the US and abroad. Each designer created a crochet blanket strip inspired by the area where they live, sharing little pieces of home through crochet.
For my strip, I wanted to create something inspired by the Finger Lakes region here in New York. The braided cables were designed to represent grape vines stretching across the vineyards, while the almond ridge stitch reminded me of the movement of water flowing through the lakes. I loved the texture combination so much that I knew I eventually wanted to turn the strip into a full crochet blanket pattern.
Helpful Links
- Grab the ad-free PDF version of the Braided Ridge Blanket from my Etsy shop.
- Prefer video tutorials? I’ve created a full step-by-step YouTube tutorial for this blanket, along with separate tutorials for all of the special stitches used in the pattern.
- Be sure to save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites or queue so you can find it later when you’re ready to start crocheting.
Yarn Used for the Braided Ridge Blanket Crochet Pattern
For the Braided Ridge Blanket, I used Premier Yarns Anti-Pilling Everyday Worsted yarn. I loved using this yarn for all of the texture in this blanket because it’s soft, cozy, durable, and has really nice stitch definition for both the cables and the almond ridge stitch. I used a total of 15 skeins for the blanket itself, and just about one full skein for the border. You can certainly use the yarn of your choice, as long as it’s worsted weight. You’ll need a total of 2880 yards.
Yarn Substitutes for the Braided Ridge Blanket
If you’d like to substitute yarns, here are a few great worsted-weight options:
- Lion Brand Heartland — soft with a cozy heathered look
- Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn — soft, affordable, and lots of color choices
- Caron Simply Soft — softer drape with a slight sheen
- Big Twist Value — budget-friendly and easy to find
- Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling — soft with great stitch definition
- Premier Yarns Basix Worsted — another affordable everyday option
Any smooth worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition should work beautifully for this crochet blanket pattern.
Crochet Cables Aren’t as Hard as They Look
If crochet cables have ever intimidated you a little bit, you are definitely not alone. They look complicated at first glance, but once you understand how they work, they really aren’t nearly as difficult as they seem.
The cables in the Braided Ridge Blanket are created by working around the posts of stitches in a specific order to create that braided effect. Once you get into the rhythm of the repeats, it becomes really relaxing and fun to watch the texture start to pop out row by row. This blanket is honestly a great introduction to crochet cables if you’ve been wanting to try them but felt nervous to start.
The Almond Ridge Stitch in the Braided Ridge Blanket
The almond ridge stitch adds a softer texture to balance out the boldness of the cables. While the cables create that braided, raised look, the almond ridge stitch gives the blanket a gentle ripple texture that reminds me of moving water.
I really love how these two stitch patterns work together throughout the blanket. The combination creates lots of texture while still keeping the pattern relaxing and repetitive enough to really enjoy the process of crocheting it.
It’s the kind of crochet project that feels cozy from the very beginning and is perfect for slow evenings with a cup of tea and your favorite show playing in the background.
Video Tutorial for the Braided Ridge Blanket
How I Started My Braided Ridge Blanket
I started my blanket with a foundation half double crochet row of 174 stitches. I love using foundation stitches whenever possible because they create a stretchy edge and eliminate the need to work into a long starting chain. If you’re unfamiliar with foundation half double crochet, be sure to check out my tutorial here.
If you prefer not to use foundation stitches, you can absolutely begin with a traditional starting chain instead. Simply chain 175, then work a half double crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. You’ll still end up with 174 half double crochet stitches, giving you the same starting stitch count for the blanket.
Choosing a Border for the Braided Ridge Blanket
Deciding on a border for this blanket was surprisingly difficult. I spent quite a bit of time scrolling through Pinterest looking for inspiration, but nothing felt quite right. Since this blanket already features so much texture, I worried that adding an elaborate border would make the finished project feel a bit too busy.
In the end, I decided to keep things simple with three rounds of single crochet worked around the entire blanket. The clean, understated border helps frame the blanket while keeping the focus on the braided ridge texture.
That said, if you’d like to add a little extra detail, I think a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) would make a lovely final round. For my blanket, however, I chose to stop after three rounds of single crochet, which gave the edges a neat, polished finish without competing with the texture of the blanket itself.
Materials
- 16 skeins of Premier Yarns Anti-pilling Everyday Worsted (color used in sample photos in this blog post: Spruce) or 2880 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn
- H8 (5.00mm) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle (for sewing in ends)
- Tape measure
Skill Level
- This pattern is classified as intermediate due to the use of cable techniques and post stitches. While it may be a step up from beginner patterns, this is best suited for confident crocheters who are comfortable working around stitches.
Tutorial Notes
- This pattern is written in English using standard US crochet terms.
- The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- Each row has 2 ‘sections’. Section 1 (cables) has 18 stitches. Section 2 (almond stitch) has 20 stitches. These Sections are repeated across the row.
- You will repeat Sections 1 and 2, beginning and ending with Section 1.
- Rows will begin and end with 2 stitches of either hdc or sc, depending on which row you’re on. These do not count as Sections 1 or 2.
- Section 2 will always be worked in the blo, no matter what row you are on.
Stitches Used and Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sc = single crochet
- yo = yarn over
- sl st/sts = slip stitch/stitches
- hdc = half double crochet
- fhdc = foundation half double crochet
- FPdc = Front Post double crochet
- FPtr = Front Post treble crochet
- blo = back loop only
Special Stitches
fhdc (foundation half double crochet):
- Video tutorial: HERE
FPdc (front post double crochet):
Cables:
Almond Ridge Stitch:
Gauge
2″ square = 2 sts x 8 rows of the almond ridge stitch (worked with 5.00mm hook)
Measurements
- Approx. 50″ square, without border. The border adds about 1-1.5″ around.
Pattern Instructions
Row 1 [RS]: fhdc 174 ch 1, turn. Alternatively, you can chain 175, and work 1 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. This will still give you 174 hdc.
Row 2 [WS]: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.
Row 3: hdc in first 2 sts, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 2 times, * [sl st in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts] 2 times, sl st in next 4 sts, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next st 2 rows below] 2 times; rep from * across to last 2 sts, hdc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
Row 4: (remember that Section 2 is always worked in the blo from now on) sc in first 2 sts, sc in next 18 sts, * [sl st blo in next 4 sts, hdc blo in next 4 sts] 2 times, sl st blo in next 4 sts, sc in next 18 sts; rep from * across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: hdc in first 2 sts, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times, hdc in next st, sk next 2 post sts, FPtr around 3rd post, FPtr around the 4th post, FPtr around 1st skipped post, FPtr around 2nd skipped post, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times, hdc in next st, sk next 2 post sts, FPtr around 3rd post, FPtr around the 4th post, FPtr around 1st skipped post, FPtr around 2nd skipped post, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times, *[hdc blo in next 4 sts, sl st blo in next 4 sts] 2 times, hdc blo in next 4 sts, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times, hdc in next st, sk next 2 post sts, FPtr around 3rd post, FPtr around the 4th post, FPtr around 1st skipped post, FPtr around 2nd skipped post, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times, hdc in next st, sk next 2 post sts, FPtr around 3rd post, FPtr around the 4th post, FPtr around 1st skipped post, FPtr around 2nd skipped post, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times; rep from * across to last 2 sts, hdc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
Row 6: sc in first 2 sts, sc in next 18 sts, * [hdc blo in next 4 sts, sl st blo in next 4 sts] 2 times, hdc blo in next 4 sts, sc in next 18 sts; rep from * across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
Row 7: hdc in first 2 sts, [FPdc around next FPdc below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 2 times, * [sl st in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts] 2 times, sl st in next 4 sts, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 4 times, hdc in next st, [FPdc around next FPdc 2 rows below] 2 times; rep from * across to last 2 sts, hdc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
Row 8: sc in first 2 sts, sc in next 18 sts, * [hdc blo in next 4 sts, sl st blo in next 4 sts] 2 times, hdc blo in next 4 sts, sc in next 18 sts; rep from * across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.
Rows 9 and beyond: Continue repeating Rows 5-8 until your blanket reaches your desired length. I stopped after working through approximately 15 skeins (2,700 yards) of yarn, which resulted in a blanket measuring about 50″ x 50″ before adding the border.
My blanket measured approximately 50″ x 50″ before adding the border. Keep in mind that this blanket has quite a bit of weight to it, and the finished fabric will naturally stretch slightly, especially after use, which can add a bit of extra length.
When you’re ready to finish your blanket, be sure to end after completing either Row 6 or Row 8. The Almond Ridge Stitch is worked over a two-row repeat, and ending after Row 6 or Row 8 ensures that the stitch pattern is fully completed before you begin the border.
In other words, avoid stopping halfway through the Almond Ridge Stitch repeat. Completing both rows of the stitch sequence gives the blanket a more polished, finished appearance and allows the textured ridges to remain consistent from the beginning of the blanket all the way to the end.
Once you’ve reached your desired size and completed the stitch pattern repeat, do not fasten off. Proceed directly to the border instructions.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Blanket Border
Round 1: Ch 1 and turn. The right side of your work should now be facing you.
Work 1 sc in each stitch across. In the last stitch, work (sc, ch 2, sc) to form the first corner.
Working down the side of the blanket, place sc stitches evenly along the edge. I worked approximately 1 sc per row. In the last stitch of the side, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Second corner is made. Turn your blanket to work the bottom now.
Work 1 sc in each stitch across the bottom of the blanket. In the last stitch, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Third corner made. Turn your blanket to work up the final side.
Working up the remaining side, place sc stitches evenly along the edge. In the last stitch, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Join with a sl st to the first sc. Ch 1. Do not turn.
Round 2: With the right side still facing you, work 1 sc in each stitch around. In each ch-2 corner space, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Join with a sl st to the first sc. Ch 1. Do not turn.
Round 3: Repeat Round 2. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Final Thoughts on the Braided Ridge Blanket
The Braided Ridge Blanket was such a special project for me to design, especially knowing it started as part of the Road Trip CAL inspired by the Finger Lakes region here in New York. I really loved combining the braided cables with the almond ridge stitch because the two textures work together so beautifully throughout the blanket.
Even though the cables look intricate, this pattern is actually really relaxing once you get into the rhythm of it, and the texture keeps things interesting row after row. If you’ve been wanting to try crochet cables for the first time or you simply love cozy textured crochet blanket patterns, I truly hope you enjoy making the Braided Ridge Blanket as much as I enjoyed creating it.
SHOP PREMIUM PATTERNS:
These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.
