Hi friends! I am really excited to share my Pineapple Purse Pattern with you! Everything you need to make this fun purse is right here…photo tutorials and color graph are included! Of course, if you’d like to purchase the printable version for only $3.50, you can do so HERE or in my ETSY SHOP.
I originally designed this to be a mason jar cozy. You can find that pattern HERE. I had a customer request that it be made into a purse for her and after seeing how adorable it looked as a purse, I knew I needed to write the pattern for you guys.
So, here it is…my Pineapple Purse Pattern. Cheers!
As always, if you experience any issues with this pattern, you can reach out to me HERE. I’m always available to answer any questions or help you through a tricky spot 🙂
- G+ (4.5mm) crochet hook
- Any worsted weight acrylic yarn
- Tapestry needle
Advanced beginner. This pattern uses beginner friendly stitches, however, there is some color work. This is a great pattern to introduce the challenges of color work to those who have never done it before. I have included photo tutorials on page 4.
- This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms.
- VERY IMPORTANT: This pattern is worked in the round for the 1st two rounds, turning rounds for the rest of the purse except the last 3 rounds, which will be worked in the round again. If you work the entire purse in the round, your pineapple will lean. In order for your pineapple to be straight, you need to work in turning rounds. I have noted in the pattern which rows are turning rows and which rows are worked in the round so don’t worry about having to remember all this. 🙂
- Stitches written in brackets [ ] are to be repeated as many times as indicated. For example: [hdc, bbl] 3 times means you will make a hdc in the next st, a bbl in the next st and you will repeat this 3 times.
- The chain one at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.
- You will need to carry your yarn while making the pineapple. I have included instructions on how to do this on pages 3 and 4.
Stitches used and abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- yo = yarn over
- bbl/bbls = bobble/bobbles: (note: bobbles are worked on the wrong side and “pop out” on the opposite(right) side).
To work a bobble:
- yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through first two loops on hook (two loops remaining on hook)
- [yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through first two loops on hook] three more times.
- yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up a loop (you should now have six loops on your hook, yo, draw through all six loops on hook.
- MC = main color
- CC = contrasting color (this is your pineapple)
- CC1 = second contrasting color (this is for the pineapple leaves)
4”x4” square = 15 hdc and 11 rows with 4.5mm hook
Approximately 5.5″ wide x 9.5″ long (depending on how long your fringe is).
Color Changes and How to Read this Pattern
When changing colors, you will work the very last stitch before the color change like this: work the stitch as normal until you have to draw through the remaining loops on hook. Drop your yarn, pick up the next color and use that to draw through the loops. You are now ready to work the next stitch with the new color. Likewise, you will do the same when switching back to your previous color. Important: when you drop your yarn, make sure to lay it across the next stitch/stitches and you will work your next stitch over that strand. Don’t let it fall in front of your work.
Here is an example of a round from the pattern:
“MC [hdc in first st and in next 15 sts] CC, bbl [hdc, bbl] 2 times MC [hdc in each to the end]” You will read this round like this: “with the MC, hdc in same st and in next 15 sts (on the 16th st you will drop your MC and pick up the CC) with the CC do a bbl in next st, [hdc in next st, bbl in next st] – 2 times (before you finish your bbl, switch back to your MC) with MC, hdc in each st to the end of the round.
Sections that say “bbl, hdc, bbl” should be read as “bbl in next st, hdc in next st, bbl in next st.”
A note about the bobble rows: I ‘tighten down’ on the bobbles after I make them. This keeps them nice and straight and keeps your pineapple from leaning. However, a couple of my testers said they had good results when they worked a sc in between the bobbles instead of a hdc. Since everyone’s tension/crochet styles vary, you may just have to try both to see which method gives you the best results.
Work your hdc as normal until you get to 3 loops left on hook
Drop your yarn and pick the next color. Make sure to lay it (the color you are dropping) across the next stitch. Don’t let it fall to the front of your work.
Complete the stitch by drawing the new color through the loops on your hook. You are now ready to make the next stitch with the new color.
Work bobble until you have 6 loops on hook, drop yarn.
Pick up next color and complete the stitch by drawing through all loops on hook.
I pick up my pineapple color on my way ‘back’ around and work over it so it’s right where I need it when it’s time to pick it up again. This way, my work is clean and I avoid having lines of yarn across my work.
As you can see, my pineapple color is now right where I need it to be for the next round.
Using your MC, ch 40. Join to first ch, being careful not to twist it. Ch 1, turn.
Round 1: hdc in same ch as ch 1 and in each ch around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. Do not turn. (40 hdc)
Round 2: hdc in first st and in each st around. Join to first st with a sl st, ch 1 TURN. (40 hdc)
now working in turning rounds
Round 3: MC [hdc in first st and in next 8 sts] CC, bbl [hdc, bbl] 2 times, MC [hdc in each st to the end] join with a sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn. (37 hdc, 3 bbls)
Round 4: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 5: MC [hdc in first st and in next 7 sts] CC, bbl [hdc, bbl] 3 times MC [hdc in each st to the end] join with a sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn (36 hdc, 4 bbls)
Round 6: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 7: Repeat round 5 (36 hdc, 4 bbls)
Round 8: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 9: Repeat round 5 (36 hdc, 4 bbls)
Round 10: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 11: Repeat round 3. Fasten off CC. (37 hdc, 3 bbls)
Round 12: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 13: MC [hdc in first st and in next 8 sts] CC1 [bbl] MC [hdc] CC1 [bbl] MC [hdc] CC1
[bbl] MC [hdc in each st to the end] join with a sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn (37 hdc, 3 bbls)
Round 14: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 15: MC [hdc in first st and in next 7 sts] CC1 [bbl] MC [hdc, hdc] CC1 [bbl] MC [hdc
hdc] CC1 [bbl] MC [hdc in each st to the end] join with a sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn (37 hdc,
Round 16: Repeat round 2 (40 hdc)
Round 17: MC [hdc in first st and in next 10 sts] CC1 [bbl] MC [hdc in each st to the end] join with a sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn. Fasten off CC1 (39 hdc, 1 bbl)
working in the round again
Rounds 18 & 19: hdc in first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (40 hdc)
Round 20: Sc in first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st with a sl st. Do not fasten off. You will now make the strap. (40 sc)
ch until the strap is your desired length. Mine is 38″ long. Once the strap is at your desired length, working back down the strap, make one sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. To attach the strap, sl st in the st to the left of where you started the strap (refer to photo below). Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew the other end to the inside of the opposite side of purse.
To close the bottom of purse:
With the pineapple front and center, hold both sides of purse together. Insert your hook through the front and back stitches. Pull up a loop and ch 1. Sc in same set of sts. Continue to sc through front and back sts all the way across. Fasten off. Rather than weave in the end, you can add it to the fringe.
1. Cut one piece of yarn 16″ long. Cut in half.
2. Line both pieces up together and fold in half. You will now have 4 pieces of “fringe” at the bottom.
3. With your crochet hook, pull the loop through the first stitch at the bottom of your purse.
4. Pull the fringe ends through the loop tightly to secure it. 5.Trim fringe to desired length.
How to read the color graph:
Each square on the graph represents one stitch.
The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round.
The first two rounds will start at the number 1 on the right and when you turn to work
and for the third round, you will be working from stitch 40 and work back to stitch 1. Tip: all the bobble rounds will be worked from stitch 1 and all hdc rounds will be worked from stitch 40.
The pink squares represent rounds worked from the wrong side and are worked from
left to right (with the bobbles).
The blue rows are rounds worked on the right side and are worked from right to left (no bobbles).
B = bobble stitch. Work a bobble stitch using the CC.
H = half double crochet. Work a half double crochet using the CC.
1 = work a bobble stitch using the CC1.
All other squares = work a hdc in the MC
I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I would love to see all your Pinapple makes!
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