This stunning crochet bag pattern using tapestry crochet to form a bright and colorful diamond design. Made using Shine Worsted yarn from WeCrochet.

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TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG

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This pattern is part of the Summer Designer’s Pick blog hop. To get this pattern as a free Ravelry download on June 20th, keep scrolling to get to the download button 🙂

TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG PATTERN

TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG

Tapestry Crochet Bag Pattern

I am a sucker for a good bag. Generally speaking, I tend to go for more practical bags, but I still like them to look pretty.

I was stuck on this bag design for weeks on end it seemed. I knew I wanted something round with a drawstring and I knew I wanted it to be colorful. But I just couldn’t come up with a pattern that I liked at all! Then one day when I was shopping, I saw a diamond pattern and knew that was the design I wanted this bag to be. As soon as I was back on my laptop, I began designing the diamond pattern and got straight to work.

I loved it more and more as it worked up. Honestly, it turned out so much more beautiful than I expected it to! And I hope you will enjoy making yourself this pretty tapestry crochet bag too.

MATERIALS:

  • SHINE worsted yarn from WeCrochet OR your favorite #4 yarn:
    •  Willow: 3 skeins (225 yards, 150 grams)
    •  Serrano: 2 skeins (150 yards, 100 grams)
    •  Reef: 2 skeins (150 yards, 100 grams)
    •  Sweet Potato: 2 skeins (150 yards, 100 grams)
    •  Serenade: 2 skeins (150 yards, 100 grams)

Note: I actually used exactly 3 skeins of the Willow and 2 skeins of the other colors. You may want to get 1 extra skein of each color to be on the safe side.

  • 4.00mm (G6)  crochet hook
  • scissors
  • tapestry needle
  • stitch markers

SKILL LEVEL:

  • Intermediate. The maker should have basic knowledge of how to change colors

PATTERN NOTES:

  • This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
  • The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
  • You will work the bottom under both loops and the body of the bag in the back loop only.
  • Written instructions for rounds 1-20 are given. For rounds 25-56 you will use the color graph provided below.
  • The bottom of the bag is work in continuous round while the body of the bag is work in joined rounds.

TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG

STITCHES USED AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):

  • ch = chain
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • blo = back loop only
  • sc = single crochet

Single Crochet Back Loop Only (sc blo): Instead of working each stitch under both loops, you will be working under just the back loop.

GAUGE:

  • Make the first 5 rounds of the bag bottom first and then measure. It should measure 2″ across.

FINISHED SIZE:

  • circumference: 30″
  • bottom of bag: 9″ across
  • height: 11.5″

COLOR CHANGES:

Color changes are actually quite simple! When you see on the graph that you need to change color, here’s what you’ll do: When making the stitch before the color change, only make the stitch halfway. So, insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop. Before you yarn over again…! Drop your working yarn, pick up the contrasting color and draw through the loops with that. Now you’re ready to work the next stitch with the new color! You will repeat this process to change back to your original color.

Note: these photos show me working under both loops, but you will be working in the blo as the pattern states.

TAPESTRY CROCHET TUTORIAL

When you make the stitch before the color change, start the stitch as normal, but before you finish the stitch, drop your working yarn.

TAPESTRY CROCHET TUTORIAL

Pick your next color and use that to pull through the last 2 loops on your hook and finish the stitch.

TAPESTRY CROCHET TUTORIAL

To change back to your previous color, just repeat the same steps you used to change colors the first time.

TAPESTRY CROCHET TUTORIAL

Pull through the last 2 loops on the hook with the previous color and now you’re ready to work with the previous color again.

PRO TIP: to keep your yarn from getting tangled always drop each color on the same side. What I mean is this: Every time you drop the MC, drop it to the front of your work. And when you drop your CC, drop it to the back of your work. Always drop the same color on the same side, and your yarn will never get tangled.

Of course you will still be working over the color you’re not currently using, but when you initially drop your yarn, drop it to the front or the back depending on whether it’s the MC or the CC. Then, pick it up and lay it across the stitch so you can work over it.

HOW TO READ THE COLOR GRAPH:

Each square on the graph represents one stitch. Just as we crochet from right to left, the graph is to be read from right to left for each round. The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round. To keep the graph small and easier to read, you will start from round 1, square 1 and repeat the 10 stitch sequence for the duration of the round.

COLOR GRAPH

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG:

start by using your main color (I used Willow)

Round 1: make a magic circle and work 6 sc into circle. Pull circle closed but do not join. (6 sc)

Round 2: using a stitch marker, mark the beginning of this round and the beginning of each of the next 18 rounds. Work 2 sc in first st and in each st around to stitch marker. Take out stitch marker and insert into the first stitch of next round – do this at the end of each of next 18 rounds (12 sc)

Round 3: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in next st, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in next st] Repeat from [ to ] around. (18 sc)

Round 4: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (24 sc)

Round 5: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 3 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (30 sc)

Round 6: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 4 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (36 sc)

Round 7: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 5 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (42 sc)

Round 8: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 6 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (48 sc)

Round 9: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 7 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (54 sc)

Round 10: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 8 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 8 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (60 sc)

Round 11: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 9 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 9 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (66 sc)

Round 12: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 10 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (72 sc)

Round 13: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 11 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 11 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (78 sc)

Round 14: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 12 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (84 sc)

Round 15: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 13 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 13 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (90 sc)

Round 16: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 14 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (96 sc)

Round 17: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 15 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 15 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (102 sc)

Round 18: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 16 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 16 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (108 sc)

Round 19: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 17 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 17 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (114 sc)

Round 20: work 2 sc in first st, work 1 sc in each of next 18 sts, [work 2 sc in next st, work 1 sc in each of next 18 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. (120 sc)

Switch to serrano

Round 21: working in the back loops only through round 61 work 1 sc in first st and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first st. (120 sc)

Switch to reef

Round 22: repeat round 21. (120 sc)

Switch to serenade

Round 23: repeat round 21. (120 sc)

Switch to sweet potato

Round 24: repeat round 21. (120 sc)

Rounds 25-56: follow the color graph on page 8 (120 sc)

Using just the main color (in my case, Willow) from now on

Round 57: work 1 sc in first st and in each of next 7 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, [work 1 sc in each of next 8 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts] Repeat from [ to ] around. (96 sc, 12 ch-2 spaces)

Rounds 58-61: repeat rounds 21-24 using the same color changes. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (120 sc)

MAKING THE STRAP

using serrano

Row 1: ch for approximately 40″ (or to your desired length), make 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across

Don’t turn your work. Go back to the first st. Attach the new color and continue working on the same side, the right side for each row of the strap.

using reef

Row 2: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using serenade

Row 3: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using sweet potato

Row 4: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using willow

Row 5: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using sweet potato

Row 6: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using serenade

Row 7: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using reef

Row 8: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

using serrano

Row 9: make 1 sc in first st and in each st across

Fasten off, making sure to leave a tail long enough for sewing.

ATTACHING THE STRAP

Find (and mark with stitch markers if needed) 2 points on your bag directly across from each other. Whip stitch each end of the strap on to the bag.

WHIP STITCH TUTORIAL

MAKING THE DRAWSTRING

cut 9 pieces of yarn (in any combination of colors) approximately 55-60″ in length each. Make a knot on one end, making sure to keep at least 2-3″ of fringe on the short end (or your desired fringe length)

Find someone to hold the knotted end for you OR find something heavy enough to put on top of the short end. I put mine under the leg of our recliner and it held it for me just fine.

BRAIDED DRAWSTRING TUTORIAL

Then, divide the yarn so you have groups of 3 strands and braid it all the way down. Knot the end and start feeding it through the ch 2 spaces on your bag. Trim the fringe as needed.

DRAWSTRING TUTORIAL

Weave in all ends. Your tapestry crochet bag is now finished!

If you made this bag and love it, please share and tag me @spottedhorsedesignco on social media. I absolutely love seeing all your makes!

TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG

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These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.

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1 Comment

  1. Kathleen says:

    Hello, firstly beautiful bag! Secondly thank you for being a part of the round up and sharing! Thirdly just in case you weren’t aware the download round up button is not working 😉 have a blessed day!! And thank you so very much!!

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