Tapestry Crochet Cactus Beanie Pattern
Recently a friend of mine was designing a crochet blanket and she was stumped on the design. Then she had a lightbulb moment decided to design a giant cactus blanket. Her response to me? “When in doubt, put a cactus on it.” She isn’t wrong though! Cactus prints continue to be very popular no matter what area you live in.
This crochet beanie pattern has all of my favorites: knit-look stitches and a stretchy knit-like brim, little cactuses all the way around and finally it’s made from the squishiest yarn: Hue & Me from Lion Brand. I truly believe this is the perfect beanie!
This crochet beanie is truly not that difficult, but I know that the waistcoat stitch can be frustrating for some beginners. Just make sure to keep your tension nice and loose and go up a hook size or two if you need to! If you can make a slip stitch and a single crochet, then you can make this. And don’t worry about the color work…I have plenty of photo tutorials to walk you through it.
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CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE
My sister, Grace, is the namesake for this crochet beanie. She tends to dress very practically – plain colors, no frills. And there is nothing wrong with that! In fact, I admire her simplicity. But when she saw my finished beanie it was love at first sight. And she is NOT a faux fur pom (or a cactus loving) kind of gal!
In fact, she is the one you see modeling it in these photos. Looks good on her, eh?
Wanna watch my most popular YouTube tutorial? Watch here.
Free Crochet Pattern for the Cactus Beanie
- Intermediate. The maker should have basic knowledge of how to change colors. This pattern also uses slip stitch crochet and the waistcoat stitch – both of which require the maker to be able to tension their yarn accordingly.
- This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
- The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- Loose tension is very important for this particular design! You may need to go up a hook size or two if you have very tight tension.
- The brim and the hat are worked separately. The brim is worked in short rows and the hat is worked in the round, from the bottom up. The two pieces are assembled at the end.
- You can start using the graph from round 1, even though there are written instructions given.
STITCHES USED AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- sc = single crochet
- wst = waistcoat stitch
- wst dec = waistcoat stitch decrease
The Waistcoat Stitch:
The Waistcoat Stitch is a knit look stitch that requires loose tension. However, it’s quite simple – it’s just a single crochet! The only difference is where you make the stitch. The most important tip I can give you is to make sure you make this stitch with very loose tension! Otherwise, this will be a very frustrating experience for you. I suggest making a few rounds first just to get the hang of it. SCROLL DOWN FOR PHOTO TUTORIALS.
- Make 3 rounds of the hat first and then measure. You should have: 3 wst rounds x 3 sts = 1 square inch.
(laying flat and assembled but without Pom Pom):
- Length: approx. 8.5″
- Width at brim: approx. 9.5″
Brim width measurements:
- 4.25″, unfolded
- 2.25″, folded
How to adjust the size:
This hat is designed for an average adult female. I have not made this hat for a child, only the adult size. You could decrease the size in one of two ways: first, simply use worsted weight yarn and a smaller hook. Second, you could decrease the amount of starting chains in increments of 7 – each cactus and the space between the cacti are 7 stitches, so to keep the design even, you’d need to decrease in increments of 7 stitches.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE BRIM – CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE:
using the main color, ch 13
*A note on the brim width: You can make the brim the length of your choice. Simply add more chains. Once you’ve made 5-6 rows, fold the brim in half (this is a folded brim) and assess if it’s a good length for you.
Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sl sts)
Row 2: working in the back loops only in every row from now on, make 1 sl st blo in each st all the way across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sl sts)
Repeat row 2 until the brim stretches comfortably around your head. IMPORTANT: Fold the brim in half lengthwise (as if you were folding up the brim on a beanie) and then stretch it around your head. Don’t stretch it around your head unfolded, otherwise you will end up with a brim that is too tight. A folded brim vs. an unfolded brim are two different lengths so it’s super important to size it to your head when it’s folded.
SEWING THE BRIM OF CROCHET BEANIE
When your brim has reached the length that is comfortable for you, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the ends together.
Fold your brim so the ends are together and whip stitch across.
Once you’ve stitched all the way across, fasten off and flip it around so that the seam is on the inside.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE
still using the main color: Ch 49, join to first ch with a sl st being careful not to twist it. Ch 1. (49 ch)
Round 1: (optional: you can start using the graph on this round if that’s easier – scroll to the end of this blog post for the color graph) make one sc in each ch all the way around. Join with a sl st to first st. Ch 1. (49 sc)
Round 2: make one wst in first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st. Ch 1. (49 wst)
Rounds 3: repeat Round 2 (49 wst).
Rounds 4-14: repeat Round 2 using the color graph at the end of this blog post. (49 wst)
TAPESTRY CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE
Round 15: make one wst in first st and in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 5 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (42 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 16: make one wst in first st and in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (35 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 17: make one wst in first st and in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (28 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 18: make one wst in first st and in next st, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (21 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 19: wst in first st. Wst dec over next two sts and in every 2 sts all the way around. Join with a sl st to first st. Fasten off and leave a tail long enough for sewing up the top of the hat. (1 single wst st, 10 wst dec). Leave a tail long enough for sewing
SEWING THE TOP OF THE BEANIE:
Thread the tail on to a tapestry needle and weave in and out of the sts along the top of the hat.
Cinch the the top closed.
Pull tight to close completely.
To reinforce it, stitch a cross shape over the top of the hole. To do this, make stitch from top to bottom across the cinched hole, and then again from left to right.
ATTACHING THE BRIM TO THE BEANIE:
Drop the brim into the hat.
Stretch it so that it’s fits into the hat.
Whip stitch the edge of the brim to the bottom edge of the hat.
Tie off and pull brim the out of the hat.
Fold the brim up.
WAISTCOAST STITCH PHOTO TUTORIALS:
Normally, we insert our hook under the loops on top.
Instead, you will insert your hook in between the V or ‘legs’ of the stitch. Here, I’ve inserted my needle behind the V so you can see better what I’m talking about.
Here, I’ve inserted my needle in the center of the V to show you exactly where you will be inserting your hook to make the stitch.
HOW TO DECREASE WAISTCOAT STITCHES:
- Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through all three loops.
There will be times where you have to decrease over previously decreased waistcoat stitches. In those instances, you will insert your hook between the two stitches. See the photos below for reference:
Here, I’m using my tapestry needle to show where you’ll be inserting your hook.
This photo is just about the same as the first one, except I’m about to insert my hook to make the decrease.
HOW TO CHANGE COLOR IN CROCHET:
Color changes are actually quite simple! When you see on the graph that you need to change color, here’s what you’ll do: When making the stitch before the color change, only make the stitch halfway. So, insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop. Before you yarn over again…! Drop your working yarn, pick up the contrasting color and draw through the loops with that. Now you’re ready to work the next stitch with the new color! You will repeat this process to change back to your original color.
HOW TO READ THE COLOR GRAPH:
Each square on the graph represents one stitch. Just as we crochet from right to left, the graph is to be read from right to left for each round. The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round. To keep the graph small and easier to read, you will start from round 1, square 1 and repeat the sequence for the duration of the round.
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These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.