Chunky Crochet Beanie Pattern
If you’ve been following me for any length of time, then you know that me and wine are in a committed relationship LOL. Of course, living in the Finger Lakes one must love wine, right??
As someone who loves wine tasting regularly, I wanted to create something to show off my love for wine. I also
needed wanted something to wear when I visit all my favorite wineries in the colder months. So naturally, I created a chunky beanie that spelled out the word, “WINE” in bold letters.
This chunky crochet beanie is made from the super soft Hue + Me yarn from Lion Brand. I have been obsessed with this yarn lately and have been making everything using it. It’s a bit thicker than a traditional #5 yarn, but still not bulky enough for #6 and the COLORS! Such a beautiful palette. Check out this lovely yarn HERE.
DON’T LIKE ADS? PURCHASE THE DOWNLOADABLE, PRINTABLE PDF:
This pattern is a part of the “Fireside Comforts” Blog Hop hosted by Ambassador Crochet. For the next 24 hours only (October 10, 2022), you will be able to access the PDF as a direct download on Ravelry completely free 🙂 Scroll down to get your free download link.
CROCHET CHUNKY BEANIE
This WINE crochet beanie is a great gift for the wine lover in your life! Even though this design does use tapestry crochet, with the chunky yarn, it really works up quickly. You can crank out a few of these in a day or two for your friends so you all are looking festive for your next wine tasting adventure 🙂
Speaking of wine, you can pair your crochet WINE beanie with a wine tote to bring your wine home in!
Free Crochet Pattern for the WINE Beanie
- 3 skeins of HUE + ME bulky yarn from Lion Brand. 1 main color, 1 contrasting color, 1 letter color (or 137 yards (125 grams) of #5 yarn in 3 colors) Alternatively, you can just use two colors. The main color can be used for the letter color.
- M-13 (9.00mm) crochet hook or whatever size needed to obtain gauge
- tapestry needle
- faux fur pom pom
- Intermediate. The maker should have basic knowledge of how to change colors. This pattern also uses slip stitch crochet and the waistcoat stitch – both of which require the maker to be able to tension their yarn accordingly.
- This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms.
- The chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- Loose tension is very important for this particular design! You may need to go up a hook size or two if you have very tight tension.
- The brim and the hat are worked separately. The brim is worked in short rows and the hat is worked in the round, from the bottom up. The two pieces are assembled at the end.
- You will work one waistcoat stitch all the way around for Rounds 2-14 and you will start using the color graph on Round 5 through Round 11.
STITCHES USED AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
- ch = chain
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- sc = single crochet
- wst = waistcoat stitch
- wst dec = waistcoat stitch decrease
- MC = main color of the hat
- CC = contrasting color
- LC = the letter color
The Waistcoat Stitch:
The Waistcoat Stitch is a knit look stitch that requires loose tension. However, it’s quite simple – it’s just a single crochet! The only difference is where you make the stitch. The most important tip I can give you is to make sure you make this stitch with very loose tension! Otherwise, this will be a very frustrating experience for you. I suggest making a few rounds first just to get the hang of it. SCROLL DOWN FOR PHOTO TUTORIALS.
- Make 3 rounds of the hat first and then measure. You should have: 3 wst rounds x 3 sts = 1 square inch.
(laying flat and assembled but without Pom Pom):
- Length: approx. 8.5″
- Width at brim: approx. 9.5″
Brim width measurements:
- 4.25″, unfolded
- 2.25″, folded
How to adjust the size:
This hat is designed for an average adult female. I have not made this hat for a child, only the adult size. To make this hat smaller, you could use a lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE BRIM – CROCHET CHUNKY BEANIE:
using the main color, ch 13
*A note on the brim width: You can make the brim the length of your choice. Simply add more chains. Once you’ve made 5-6 rows, fold the brim in half (this is a folded brim) and assess if it’s a good length for you.
Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sl sts)
Row 2: working in the back loops only in every row from now on, make 1 sl st blo in each st all the way across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sl sts)
Repeat row 2 until the brim stretches comfortably around your head. IMPORTANT: Fold the brim in half lengthwise (as if you were folding up the brim on a beanie) and then stretch it around your head. Don’t stretch it around your head unfolded, otherwise you will end up with a brim that is too tight. A folded brim vs. an unfolded brim are two different lengths so it’s super important to size it to your head when it’s folded.
SEWING THE BRIM OF CROCHET BEANIE
When your brim has reached the length that is comfortable for you, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew the ends together.
Fold your brim so the ends are together and whip stitch across.
Once you’ve stitched all the way across, fasten off and flip it around so that the seam is on the inside.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CROCHET WINE BEANIE
still using the main color: Ch 49, join to first ch with a sl st being careful not to twist it. Ch 1. (49 ch)
Round 1: (with the MC) make one sc in each ch all the way around. Join with a sl st to first st. Ch 1. (49 sc)
Round 2-3: (with the MC) make one wst in first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st. Ch 1 and fasten off the MC. You will now attach and begin using the CC (49 wst)
Round 4: attach the CC and make 1 wst in the first st and in each st around. Join witha sl st to first st. Ch 1. (49 wst)
*attach the LC at the beginning of round 5 and carry it all the way around for each round that uses it
Rounds 5-11: repeat Round 2 using the color graph on page 11. Fasten off the LC after round 11. (49 wst)
Round 12: using just the CC make 1 wst in the first st and in each st around. Join witha sl st to first st. Ch1 1. Fasten off and reattach the MC (49 wst)
Rounds 13-14: using the MC make 1 wst in the first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st. Ch1 1. (49 wst)
TAPESTRY CROCHET CACTUS BEANIE
Round 15: make one wst in first st and in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 5 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (42 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 16: make one wst in first st and in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 4 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (35 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 17: make one wst in first st and in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 3 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (28 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 18: make one wst in first st and in next st, wst dec over next 2 sts. [Wst in each of next 2 sts, wst dec over next 2 sts]. Repeat from [ to ] around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (21 wst, counting the decreases as one stitch)
Round 19: wst in first st. Wst dec over next two sts and in every 2 sts all the way around. Join with a sl st to first st. Fasten off and leave a tail long enough for sewing up the top of the hat. (1 single wst st, 10 wst dec). Leave a tail long enough for sewing
SEWING THE TOP OF THE BEANIE:
Thread the tail on to a tapestry needle and weave in and out of the sts along the top of the hat.
Cinch the the top closed.
Pull tight to close completely.
To reinforce it, stitch a cross shape over the top of the hole. To do this, make stitch from top to bottom across the cinched hole, and then again from left to right.
ATTACHING THE BRIM TO THE BEANIE:
Drop the brim into the hat.
Stretch it so that it’s fits into the hat.
Whip stitch the edge of the brim to the bottom edge of the hat.
Tie off and pull brim the out of the hat.
Fold the brim up.
WAISTCOAST STITCH PHOTO TUTORIALS:
Normally, we insert our hook under the loops on top.
Instead, you will insert your hook in between the V or ‘legs’ of the stitch. Here, I’ve inserted my needle behind the V so you can see better what I’m talking about.
Here, I’ve inserted my needle in the center of the V to show you exactly where you will be inserting your hook to make the stitch.
HOW TO DECREASE WAISTCOAT STITCHES:
- Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through all three loops.
There will be times where you have to decrease over previously decreased waistcoat stitches. In those instances, you will insert your hook between the two stitches. See the photos below for reference:
Here, I’m using my tapestry needle to show where you’ll be inserting your hook.
This photo is just about the same as the first one, except I’m about to insert my hook to make the decrease.
HOW TO CHANGE COLOR IN CROCHET:
Color changes are actually quite simple! When you see on the graph that you need to change color, here’s what you’ll do: When making the stitch before the color change, only make the stitch halfway. So, insert your hook into the stitch and draw up a loop. Before you yarn over again…! Drop your working yarn, pick up the contrasting color and draw through the loops with that. Now you’re ready to work the next stitch with the new color! You will repeat this process to change back to your original color.
HOW TO READ THE COLOR GRAPH – Crochet Chunky WINE Beanie:
Each square on the graph represents one stitch. Just as we crochet from right to left, the graph is to be read from right to left for each round. The graph is shown flat, but you will be working in the round. To keep the graph small and easier to read, I’ve only included the letters.
The numbers on the graph below correspond with the stitch numbers for each round. You will begin each round using the CC (contrasting color). Pay attention to your stitch count so you don’t miss where you’re supposed to start your letter color for that round.
For the first color-changing round, you will start with the CC and work 13 stitches, change color on the 14th stitch and begin with your first letter color on stitch 15. After you complete your last letter color on stitch 34, you will go back to the CC for the remainder of the round. Make sure to carry the LC for the remainder of the round*.
*Carry your LC all the way around for each round that uses it. To “carry” yarn means to lay it across the next stitch and crochet over it. Thus you are “carrying” it along until you need to use it again. This eliminates ‘lines’ of yarn across the back of your work.
Your chunky crochet WINE beanie is ready to wear! If you made this pattern and love it, please do tag me @spottedhorsedesignco on social media. I love seeing your makes!
Download this pattern for free today only:
Hey wine lover 🙂 Are you looking for more wine crochet patterns? Check these out:
SHOP PREMIUM PATTERNS:
These photos are the property of Spotted Horse Design Co. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Please do not copy/paste, distribute, or alter and claim as your own.